Jokhang

Potala

Prayer Wheels

Tyson over Bakhor Square

Sara circling one of the smaller temples in Bakhor

This morning I literally dragged Sara out of bed so that we could be at the Jokhang when the pilgrims arrived. Sara was not a happy camper, and toast with jam only slightly improved her mood. Before entering the Jokhang we walked around the inner pilgrim circuit that winds it way through the street of Barkhor clockwise around the Jokhang. Once we returned to the enterance we followed 3 young monks around the prayer wheel and into the courtyard. Here we searched for a good 10 minutes to find the monks selling the tickets, which we bought for 70 Yuan a piece but were never checked. Not that I mind paying to keep the holiest place for Tibetian buddism operating, and the yak butter lamps full. After recieveing the tickets we followed the pilgrims around to the left into a small chapel, before returning to the other side of the main inner courtyard and entering into the main temple. The crowds were thick to say the least. The smell of yak butter overwhelmed, while the chanting and praying gave the dark dim walls covered with buddist paintings a sense of wow. All along the wall chest touching the back of the person in front of you the piligrims slowly moved entering each of the side chapels dedicated to another god, king, of buddha. As they past a statue of personal importance a small offering was made. After about 2/12 or so side chapels the whole place became too overwhelming and we escaped to the roof. The roof is not on the pilgrim circuit and so was quiet except for the tourist groups. We were quickly able to escape even them but following the washroom signs to the living quarters of the Jokhang's remaining monks. Here we rested, watched a group of women pounding the roof flat while singing and using the dance steps combined with a type of stick with a big fat bottom to pound the ground. After enjoying the views from the roof, and enjoying the roof itself we decided to tackle the temple once more.

We got through the first 2 chapels without a line and then ended up behind a mother with her new baby who she would bless at any number of gods for protection, wisdom, longevity, etc. We slowly moved around until we reached the Chapel of Jowo Sakyamuni which contains a 1.5 meter high 12 year old Sakyamuni and is the most highly regarded relic in all of Tibet. Here the monks move you through with quick percission. Grabbing the pilgrims if they took to long to pray, which was about 1.5 seconds or so. We following along and were shown what to do by the very nice Tibetians who we had been standing in line with for the previous hour or so. After the Sakyamuni a guy who had been in line with us was kind enough to show us throught the rest of the pilgrim circuit in the correct order (not too hard just go clockwise and don't miss a room). We finally exited the temple around 1pm.

After the Jokhang we went to a couple of small temples tucked away with the streets of Barkhor. One was surounded by prayer wheels with one massive prayer wheel inside. The second contained a 2 story high incarnation of the coming buddha. After this we were for the most part templed out and returned to the guest house to drop off a couple of souvenirs before going for a lunch of vegetable chow mein and french fries that tasted like we were in a food court eating New York Fries. A nice change from Yak Butter Tea and momo's (momo is like a progey but filled with either meat or vegetables).

So now we are off for a little nap or stroll depending if your name is Sara or Tyson. While it isn't exactly hot here, the sun is a killer. By mid morning if you are in the sun you feel like someone has a huge magnifying glass on your back.

Tomorrow we are off to Gyanste and then Shigatse for a three day side trip, and I doubt we'll have internet along the way, although I've been surprised so far.

And for who asked Lhasa has approximately 200,000 people as per when our guide book was written.

Tyson and Sara